As sad as it was to see the North Bowman Buffalo Grill go out of business, the new tenant at that location has helped quell my sorrow. I’m talking about none other than Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken, the Memphis-based chicken chain that took the River Market by storm just over a year ago. Now it’s tough for me to hit the intersection of Markham and Bowman without going to David’s Burgers, but I turned north instead of south for one main reason:
better parking than the River Market delicious chicken.
So how was it? Well, if you like what Gus’s is doing downtown, you’ll like what they’re doing in West Little Rock. We ordered some Fried Green Tomatoes and a couple of plates of chicken, and all the greasy stuff was excellent. What I like most about Gus’s chicken is that it’s moist all the way to the bone while being uniformly crisp all over. That’s tough to do, and I’ve never had a piece of chicken from Gus’s that didn’t live up to that standard. The sides, as I discussed with a reader the other day, are pretty pedestrian, but let’s face it: nobody is coming to Gus’s to eat beans and slaw. They come for the chicken, and the chicken is good.
Fried chicken is only an occasional treat for me, but now that I have a Gus’s so close to me, that may change. Luckily, I live even closer to St. Vincent and UAMS, so when the heart attack finally gets me, I won’t have far to go. This crispy, spicy, perfectly cooked chicken can be addictive, and with it also being pretty cheap, it’s a wonderful, dangerous combination.